**Grade A teak comes from the mature heartwood at the tree’s core — dense, oily, uniformly golden-brown. Grade B mixes that heartwood with paler outer sapwood, so it carries less natural oil, patchier color, and softer sections. Both are real teak (jati); the difference lives in oil content, consistency, durability, and price.**
What actually separates Grade A from Grade B teak?
Every teak log has two zones. The inner heartwood is the old, dense wood at the center, rich in the natural oils and silica that make teak famous. Around it sits the sapwood: younger, paler, softer outer wood that still carried sap while the tree grew.
Grading sorts boards by how much of each zone they contain:
- Grade A — cut almost entirely from heartwood, usually the center third of a mature trunk. Uniform honey-to-brown color, tight straight grain, high oil content.
- Grade B — heartwood mixed with some sapwood, or heartwood with visible knots and color variation. Still structurally sound, just less consistent.
- Grade C — mostly sapwood, branches and small offcuts; pale, knotty, oil-poor. Rarely specified for export furniture.
Worth saying plainly: no single global authority stamps these letters. Grade definitions are commercial conventions agreed between workshops and buyers, not a government standard. That is exactly why importers sourcing outdoor collections tend to specify Grade A teak furniture in writing — with photos, moisture targets, and approved samples — rather than trusting a letter on an invoice.
How do color and oil content differ?
Grade A heartwood holds the tree’s full load of natural oils. Freshly planed, it shows an even golden-brown that deepens with age and, left outdoors untreated, silvers to a soft grey patina.
Grade B runs lighter and blotchier. Sapwood sections stay creamy or straw-colored and never fully match the surrounding heartwood, so a finished Grade B tabletop often shows streaks or pale patches — invisible under paint or dark stain, obvious under a clear oil finish.
Oil content is the practical divider. That natural oil is what resists water, insects and rot. Heartwood-heavy Grade A keeps far more of it; sapwood-heavy Grade B keeps much less, which matters most for anything that meets the weather.
Does the grade actually change durability?
Yes — but with honest limits. Heartwood’s density and oil give Grade A a genuine edge against moisture, fungi and marine borers, which is why boat-builders and outdoor-furniture makers prize it. Sapwood in Grade B is more permeable and more prone to checking and mold if left untreated outside.
That said, no exporter can promise a lifespan. Real-world durability depends on kiln-drying (proper KD to roughly 8-12% moisture content), joinery, finish and how the buyer maintains the piece — not the grade letter alone. A well-built, well-oiled Grade B indoor chair can easily outlast a neglected Grade A bench. Treat grade as a strong indicator of quality, not a guarantee of longevity.
How big is the price gap between Grade A and Grade B?
Grade drives a large slice of teak’s price, but so do construction, section thickness, finish, hardware and how tightly a piece cubes out inside the container. None of the figures below is a fixed quote.
As an indicative example only — as of 2026 and subject to change — solid Grade A pieces from Jepara workshops commonly run roughly 30-60% more per piece than a comparable Grade B build, with Grade C sitting well below both. A Grade A outdoor dining chair might be quoted around USD 90-140 FOB where a Grade B equivalent lands nearer USD 60-95, purely as a ballpark.
Those numbers shift with grade, joinery, finish and container cubing, and no official government source publishes teak-furniture prices. Real figures come only from a quote against your actual item list and specs.
Grade A vs Grade B teak at a glance
| Attribute | Grade A | Grade B |
|---|---|---|
| Wood source | Heartwood core of mature trunk | Heartwood + sapwood mix |
| Color | Even golden-brown, uniform | Lighter, streaky, patchy |
| Natural oil content | High | Low to moderate |
| Grain | Tight, straight | More variation, some knots |
| Weather resistance | Strongest | Weaker; needs finish or shelter |
| Typical MC (kiln-dried) | ~8-12% | ~8-12% |
| Indicative price (2026, example) | Highest | ~30-60% less than A |
| Best fit | Premium outdoor, hospitality, marine | Indoor, painted, budget lines |
Which grade should you actually buy?
Match the grade to where the piece will live and how it will be finished:
- Choose Grade A for outdoor dining sets, poolside and hospitality furniture, marine and yacht fit-outs, and any clear-oil finish where uniform color sells the piece.
- Choose Grade B for indoor furniture, painted or dark-stained collections, budget-conscious contract orders, and pieces that stay sheltered.
- Mix grades on purpose — many container programs pair Grade A for tabletops and exposed surfaces with Grade B for frames and hidden structure, trimming cost without hurting the visible finish.
Whatever you choose, lock the spec into the purchase order: grade, moisture target, finish, joinery, and photos of approved samples. And remember that all export teak from Indonesia must carry SVLK legality documentation regardless of grade — grade and legality are separate conversations, so settle both before you confirm a container.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you tell Grade A from Grade B teak just by looking?
Often yes, on an unfinished or clear-oiled piece. Grade A shows even golden-brown heartwood with tight grain; Grade B reveals paler sapwood streaks, more knots and uneven tone. But paint, dark stain or heavy finishing can mask sapwood, so ask for photos of the raw boards and a stated moisture content, not just a grade letter.
Is Grade B teak furniture worth buying for outdoor use?
It can work under shelter — covered patios, verandas or shaded terraces — if it is properly kiln-dried, finished and maintained. In full sun and rain, Grade B’s lower oil content and sapwood make it more prone to checking and mold than Grade A. For fully exposed outdoor sets, Grade A is the safer specification, though no grade guarantees a lifespan.
Will Grade A and Grade B teak age to the same grey patina?
Not evenly. Grade A heartwood silvers to a uniform soft grey because its color starts consistent. Grade B weathers unevenly — sapwood sections grey differently from the heartwood, leaving a patchier finish. If you want that clean, uniform aged-teak look outdoors, Grade A gives the more predictable result; Grade B usually needs regular oiling to stay presentable.